Kapi Koyu, Turkey
 
 April 8, 2019    |   read entry >












  




April 8, 2019    |   Kapi Koyu, Turkey - Bad weather out there, but we're anchored in a protected bay, shielded by mountains, forest and a 2,000 year old Lycian wall.



 





April 6, 2019 (Day 4,328)
Quick Fix: 36° 42.6 N / 28° 56.0 E
Yassica Adalari, Turkey

Practice Makes Perfect
With a nifty yellow spool, procured from a local chandlery, hanging over the quarter deck and wrapped with 300 feet of our pristine parachute sea anchor rope, we set out yesterday from Fethiye to find our first Turkish Isle on which to Med moor. With almost no tidal range and shorelines that regularly fall away from 5 feet to over 50 in under a boat length, the Mediterranean Sea is a region where stern tying is a commonly employed berthing technique, and if you don't want to embarrass yourself pulling into a busy marina, one that's worth practicing. We've stern tied before but not with any regularity so yesterday we were fully prepared to host a gong show (which was why we selected an uninhabited spectator-free island). But conditions were ideal: we dropped the hook in 60 feet, backed down into the wind to a shallow shoreline, and secured our stern to a handy bollard with nary a fuss. As it's still too cold to swim we celebrated with a toasty beach fire instead, right in our own back garden. Perfect.

               

 


April 5, 2019    |   Yassica Adalari, Turkey - Anchored and stern tied to our first Turkish Isle, with a bonus - a toasty beach fire to warm our bones.

 


April 5, 2019    |   Kas, Turkey - An eye for good. Watch out bad vibes, Dream Time's got a Nazar Boncuğu. These talismans have been around the Med' for 3,000 years.



 





April 3, 2019 (Day 4,325)
Quick Fix: 36° 37.4 N / 29° 05.6 E
Fethiye, Turkey

Turkish Delight
Life in Turkey, at least the southwestern corner we're exploring, operates at a delightful pace (assuming you're not in a hurry). Relaxed business owners seem to break regularly for Turkish coffee and endless games of backgammon. Vendors routinely offer us tea, allowing time for an exchange of pleasantries before business is discussed. Even the local chandlery, where we purchased new hoses and a ball valve, offered us apple tea while we waited - this never happened in West Marine - and we rather like it. We've explored much of the area, bartered with rug merchants in the old market, we visited 2,000 year old Lycian rock tombs, and took a two hour hike with friends to Kayakoy, a 'ghost village' abandoned by a Greek community during a relocation exchange after the war. We had lunch at a local 'restaurant' in the hills which only served one dish and one customer at a time - hand rolled pancakes cooked slowly on a single hot plate over a wood burning fire, and it was perfect.

           




 


     
   
Day 4,323 - Fethiye, Turkey
10:39hrs - April 1, 2019
A Med' Moor

Fresh from its packaging and still showing fold marks, our first Mediterranean courtesy flag is flying from Dream Time's spreaders. After her 5,000 nautical mile voyage as a passenger on cargo vessel Annette, Dream Time arrived in Turkey last week and splashed two nautical miles from the town of Fethiye, which lays just 360 nautical miles north-northwest of the Suez Canal.

The voyage from Thailand to Turkey took Annette only fifteen days, which included collecting a mega yacht in the Maldives and nine heavily armed security guards to discourage opportunistic Somali pirates from boarding. Dream Time arrived in reasonably good condition coated only with a thin layer of salt and dust as proof of her transit, along with hundreds of tiny rust specs on her coachroof - presumably from crew grinding metal somewhere on Annette's superstructure during the passage. The unloading process was complete in just two hours as we watched the Sevenstar crew release Dream Time's deck straps, lift her from the hard stands (which had been welded directly to the cargo deck), before carefully swinging her up and over the railing to meet chilly Mediterranean waters.

I wasn't sure how I would feel processing this transition. Would the sudden change in region seem unnatural? Would our voyage feel somehow interrupted? Would it seem like a defeat to be transported after having sailed every passage for twelve years? But just seconds after we clambered down the rope ladder hanging over Annette's freeboard, stepped onto Dream Time's decks, fired up the Yanmar and motored across the bay to Fethiye, I felt immediately at home, as though there had been no disruption or interlude in our voyage. In fact twenty minutes later, whilst tying up in Ece Marina, it felt similar to our 2009 arrival in New Zealand after leaving the warmth of tropical Tonga behind only to arrive in a country that was being swept with gale force winds and freezing rain.

So it's business, mostly, as usual on Dream Time, except the temperature has dropped a bone chilling thirty degrees. The sea here is 56 degrees Fahrenheit with morning air temperatures not much warmer, and the backdrop, rather than palm trees and towering limestone karsts dripping in tropical jungle, is a crisp panoramic of mountainous snowy peaks.

It will probably take us a few days to acclimatize and we have a little work ahead to prepare ourselves and Dream Time for this new climate, like: how to pronounce teşekkür ederim ('thank you' in Turkish), finding all our warm-weather gear that's buried in the aft cabin, and plotting a route through the hundreds of Greek islands between here and Athens.

Our first challenge of the day: How to Med' moor a full keeled yacht with no bow thruster into a marina space with a twenty knot cross wind and barely enough room for fenders. Welcome to the Mediterranean!